July 01, 2019

Concrete in the Clouds


Concrete in the Clouds
Walking through the clouds. Katrina Keegan

I walked into the middle of a partly cloudy day. 

On my left, thick clouds rolled off the Sea of Japan, blanketing peninsulas that jutted out of the water below, and visibly wisped across the dirt road. On my right, the bright blue sky lorded over green hills, untouched save for occasional unidentifiable concrete structures and, in the distance, the two-pronged crown of the island: the massive suspension bridge back to civilization, Vladivostok. 

Russky bridge
The Russky Bridge. / Katrina Keegan

Russky Island – Russian Island in translation – is true to its name. Contrasts evident in Russia as a whole exist in microcosm on the island: unexplored wilderness meets modern development; a secretive military history predates a partly spontaneous, partly government initiated, family-friendly present. 

On a path unknown to Google and Yandex maps, stepping on clover plants as big as the palm of your hand, looking into a jungle so densely overgrown with ferns that it turns black after just a few rows of trees, it appears as if the island is deserted. However, if you visit on a summer Sunday, the moment you step out onto the rocky beaches the fresh, mist-off-the-sea smell is banished by the savory smoke of shashlik (Russian kebabs). 

Russian family beach Russky Island
A Russian family enjoying a picnic on the beach. / Katrina Keegan

Since 2012, when the bridge from the mainland was built, the island has become a favorite weekend retreat for local families, who of course are not put out by puddle-and-trench-ridden roads, scrambles down dusty hills with small children, or poisonous snake bites (the one I saw casually crossing the road seemed just shy of a meter long). Not all the wildlife, however, is the enemy of the people; foxes here have decided to become supermodels in exchange for food. 

Fox Russky Island
Staring match. / wgovor / Pikabu

A reverse process is taking place on the island’s historical structures. Here, the wildflowers are reclaiming their territory from humans. Brave tourists with flashlights can walk through artillery batteries dating back to the Russo-Japanese War in the early 1900s, and to some extent maintained through the Soviet period, when the island was a militarized zone. The era left behind legions of unlabeled structures of various shapes and sizes, spread over the vast green landscape like a trail of concrete crumbs. 

Tsarist battery Russky Island
Flowers make war on an imperial-era battery. / Katrina Keegan

Sadly, that is not all of the island’s violent history. The island was a base for Chinese pirates, the Honghzi, to attack Russian settlers of the Far East in the nineteenth century. One website claims that a Honghuzi curse may cause people to hear voices and mysterious deaths on the island. Another Russian website claims that the island was the sight of an American torture and a concentration camp during the Allied intervention into the Russian Civil War. The interventionists did commit atrocities in a camp on the literally opposite end of Russia, Arkhangelsk. However, the claim that something similar occurred on Russky Island cannot be confirmed in reputable sources. 

There are an increasing number of options for less intrepid travellers more interested in the island’s future than its history. The administration of Primorsky Krai has been working on a variety of development projects since the island’s debut as the host of the Asia-Pacific Economic Cooperation (APEC) conference in 2012, which took place in the newly built Far East Federal University, given over to the students the following year. Another project of particular note is the Primorsky Aquarium, which opened in 2016, with an accompanying mini electric station. 

Aquarium Russky island
A fitting location for an aquarium. / Primorsky Aquarium

More is coming, but the pace of construction has varied wildly on other projects designed to attract tourism. Work has halted on the innovation cultural center, which the minister of culture for the region criticized as the worst situation he has seen in his seven years on the job. Meanwhile, students picketed to protest noisy construction of a museum-theater complex that continued daily past 10:00 pm. Also in the works are a center for digital development, a safari-park for local tigers needing rehabilitation, and an accessible beach for people with disabilities.

Accessible to all, in fact, seems to be the theme of Russky Island. From techies to tigers, pirates to picnickers, flowers to fighters, students to snakes, a lot of seemingly incompatible things coexist on this small – just barely shy of 100 square kilometers – protrusion from the sea. Much like, in fact, the much bigger Russia for which it is named. 

You Might Also Like

Vladivostok
  • July 01, 2015

Vladivostok

On the anniversary of its "birth" we look back at the history of the "ruler of the East"...
Moscow to Vladivostok
  • September 01, 2009

Moscow to Vladivostok

Few trips anywhere in the world rival the Trans-Siberian Railway. A six-day, seven-night, 9250 kilometer-long trip across the girth of the world’s largest country, it is also, as novelist Peter Aleshkovsky found, a trip into Russia’s past.
Primorye: Cars and Crime
  • January 01, 2004

Primorye: Cars and Crime

In the third installment of Ilya Stogoff's travels in the Russian Far East, the author explores Russia's Eastern Crime Capital (Khabarovsk), and has a first-hand encounter with "the criminal element."
Fear and Freezing in Vladivostok
  • January 01, 2001

Fear and Freezing in Vladivostok

A report on how the population in the Russian Far East is coping with energy shortages and muncipal mismanagement.
Like this post? Get a weekly email digest + member-only deals

Some of Our Books

Jews in Service to the Tsar

Jews in Service to the Tsar

Benjamin Disraeli advised, “Read no history: nothing but biography, for that is life without theory.” With Jews in Service to the Tsar, Lev Berdnikov offers us 28 biographies spanning five centuries of Russian Jewish history, and each portrait opens a new window onto the history of Eastern Europe’s Jews, illuminating dark corners and challenging widely-held conceptions about the role of Jews in Russian history.
93 Untranslatable Russian Words

93 Untranslatable Russian Words

Every language has concepts, ideas, words and idioms that are nearly impossible to translate into another language. This book looks at nearly 100 such Russian words and offers paths to their understanding and translation by way of examples from literature and everyday life. Difficult to translate words and concepts are introduced with dictionary definitions, then elucidated with citations from literature, speech and prose, helping the student of Russian comprehend the word/concept in context.
Moscow and Muscovites

Moscow and Muscovites

Vladimir Gilyarovsky's classic portrait of the Russian capital is one of Russians’ most beloved books. Yet it has never before been translated into English. Until now! It is a spectactular verbal pastiche: conversation, from gutter gibberish to the drawing room; oratory, from illiterates to aristocrats; prose, from boilerplate to Tolstoy; poetry, from earthy humor to Pushkin. 
At the Circus (bilingual)

At the Circus (bilingual)

This wonderful novella by Alexander Kuprin tells the story of the wrestler Arbuzov and his battle against a renowned American wrestler. Rich in detail and characterization, At the Circus brims with excitement and life. You can smell the sawdust in the big top, see the vivid and colorful characters, sense the tension build as Arbuzov readies to face off against the American.
The Little Humpbacked Horse (bilingual)

The Little Humpbacked Horse (bilingual)

A beloved Russian classic about a resourceful Russian peasant, Vanya, and his miracle-working horse, who together undergo various trials, exploits and adventures at the whim of a laughable tsar, told in rich, narrative poetry.
Faith & Humor: Notes from Muscovy

Faith & Humor: Notes from Muscovy

A book that dares to explore the humanity of priests and pilgrims, saints and sinners, Faith & Humor has been both a runaway bestseller in Russia and the focus of heated controversy – as often happens when a thoughtful writer takes on sacred cows. The stories, aphorisms, anecdotes, dialogues and adventures in this volume comprise an encyclopedia of modern Russian Orthodoxy, and thereby of Russian life.
Woe From Wit (bilingual)

Woe From Wit (bilingual)

One of the most famous works of Russian literature, the four-act comedy in verse Woe from Wit skewers staid, nineteenth century Russian society, and it positively teems with “winged phrases” that are essential colloquialisms for students of Russian and Russian culture.
Stargorod: A Novel in Many Voices

Stargorod: A Novel in Many Voices

Stargorod is a mid-sized provincial city that exists only in Russian metaphorical space. It has its roots in Gogol, and Ilf and Petrov, and is a place far from Moscow, but close to Russian hearts. It is a place of mystery and normality, of provincial innocence and Black Earth wisdom. Strange, inexplicable things happen in Stargorod. So do good things. And bad things. A lot like life everywhere, one might say. Only with a heavy dose of vodka, longing and mystery.
Maria's War: A Soldier's Autobiography

Maria's War: A Soldier's Autobiography

This astonishingly gripping autobiography by the founder of the Russian Women’s Death Battallion in World War I is an eye-opening documentary of life before, during and after the Bolshevik Revolution.

About Us

Russian Life is a publication of a 30-year-young, award-winning publishing house that creates a bimonthly magazine, books, maps, and other products for Russophiles the world over.

Latest Posts

Our Contacts

Russian Life
73 Main Street, Suite 402
Montpelier VT 05602

802-223-4955