March 14, 2021

A Memory Battle for Lubyanka Square


A Memory Battle for Lubyanka Square
The former KGB building, Lubyanka Square. Griffin Edwards

Lubyanka Square in Central Moscow is a place brimming with history. It's also the location of one of Moscow's latest controversies.

While it may seem like a fairly ordinary, urban, metro-serviced plaza, it's been a feature of Russia's capital for centuries. It's the intersection of numerous large streets, and is mere steps away from the Kremlin, Red Square, and the Bolshoi Theater. Lubyanka is right at the center of Moscow's beating heart.

Lubyanka Square is most infamous for housing the Lubyanka Building, a massive, orangish, Stalinist-neoclassical pastiche that was once the headquarters of the KGB (and, pre-revolutionarily, an insurance company building): thousands of Russians passed through its side gate, never to return. Today, it houses the FSB, successor to the KGB and essentially Russia's counterpart to the FBI and CIA rolled into one. A memorial stone stands across the street to pay homage to the victims of political oppression.

The center of Lubyanka Square is surprisingly unadorned. Originally, there was a fountain in front of the building. However, in 1958, the fountain was replaced with a statue of Felix Dzerzhinsky, founder of the Cheka, the KGB's no more humanitarian predecessor.

Lubyanka Square with the old statue of Dzerzhinsky.
Lubyanka Square, pre-1991. | RIA Novosti archive / Wikicommons.

This monument was torn down by citizens in 1991, in the chaos that came with the fall of the Soviet Union. It was moved into storage, and ever since an awkward green patch has sat before one of the most imposing buildings in Russia.

This February, however, Moscow city authorities put a vote before the people: would citizens prefer Dzerzhinsky refurbished and re-plinthed, or would they prefer a new statue of Alexander Nevsky? Other options, such creating as a new fountain or simply leaving the space empty, were rejected by city authorities.

Alexander Nevsky is a bit of a random choice. The thirteenth-century Novgorodian prince is best known for his canny diplomacy during the period of Mongol invasions, defending Russia's sovereignty when beset by Teutonic crusaders, Swedish raiders, and Asiatic hordes. Today, he's an Orthodox saint.

Nevsky and Dzerzhinsky represent vastly different things. Dzerzhinsky helped engineer one of the most repressive systems in history, while Nevsky defended Russia in a difficult time of its history. Placing a symbol of either in the center of Moscow would send a message. Which one to send, however, was in the hands of Muscovites.

There's a whole scholarly ecosystem in the field of "collective memory," which explores issues like those raised here. A hybrid of anthropology and history, researchers look to the phenomenons of commemorations, education, museums, and pop history to see how and why different historical events are remembered. It's a fascinating field, and one with continuing relevance.

Alexander Nevsky Square, Petersburg
Alexander Nevsky Square, St. Petersburg. No, the trolleybus lines above the streets are not part of the original monument. | Kuds, Wikimedia Commons

One of collective memory's main lessons is that historical retellings are normative: that is, they tell people who they ought to be, what they ought to do, and how they ought to act in a society. Widespread Russian commemoration of the Second World War, for example, is thought to be President Vladimir Putin's way of instilling Russian patriotism and nationalism into new generations, reminding them that defense of one's homeland is an important part of being Russian. In short, current political concerns are strategically reinforced and legitimized through the past. Therefore, what societies choose to remember (and forget!) is extremely revealing. Statues and other commemorations promote certain values, advertising them as something desirable.

Unfortunately, before we could see whether Russians would support the repressive legacy of Dzerzhinsky or the faithful piety of Nevsky, the voting was stopped. Nevsky had garnered 55% of 320,000 votes cast; the Cheka founder, 45%. The city cited vitriol in calling off the poll, and has chosen instead to keep the center of the square un-monumented.

Crisis averted? Maybe. But in a country with a history as tumultuous as Russia's, another crisis is probably right around the corner.

But Russia isn't the only country to do this (and we here at RL love to revel in the likes of train-borne World War II museums, collective memory is a global phenomenon). While the field doesn't provide a clear answer to the question of what to do with those pesky Confederate monuments, it does provide us with a bit of a theoretical framework.

In short, we here in the States aren't the only ones trying to deal with a complex history.

 

You Might Also Like

Idols and Anniversaries
  • November 01, 2014

Idols and Anniversaries

The Wall and Iron Felix may be gone, but one important thing never happened, which explains plenty about modern Russian politics.
The Wallenberg Secret
  • November 01, 2017

The Wallenberg Secret

The disappearance of Raoul Wallenberg remains just that. But need it be?
Russia's Political Tool
  • January 01, 1998

Russia's Political Tool

December 20, 1997 is the 80th anniversary of the KGB. We look back at the sordid history of this nefarious institution.
Confessions of an Illegal
  • January 01, 2008

Confessions of an Illegal

He lived secretly in the West under deep cover, working in offices, at dry cleaners, as a trade representative. He gathered intelligence deemed critical to the Soviet state. Now, he's talking to us.
Spetsluzhb Goes to the Movies
  • November 01, 2006

Spetsluzhb Goes to the Movies

The FSB (heir to the KGB) has been influencing Russia’s recent film releases. Propaganda is new again.
Memories of Perestroika
  • March 01, 2010

Memories of Perestroika

Malcolm Gilbert, a longtime observer of things Russian and Soviet who has been leading academic trips to Russia for over three decades, casts his gaze back to consider the changes perestroika wrought...
Like this post? Get a weekly email digest + member-only deals

Some of our Books

How Russia Got That Way
September 20, 2025

How Russia Got That Way

A fast-paced crash course in Russian history, from Norsemen to Navalny, that explores the ways the Kremlin uses history to achieve its ends.

The Pet Hawk of the House of Abbas
October 01, 2013

The Pet Hawk of the House of Abbas

This exciting new trilogy by a Russian author – who has been compared to Orhan Pamuk and Umberto Eco – vividly recreates a lost world, yet its passions and characters are entirely relevant to the present day. Full of mystery, memorable characters, and non-stop adventure, The Pet Hawk of the House of Abbas is a must read for lovers of historical fiction and international thrillers.

 
Frogs Who Begged...
November 01, 2010

Frogs Who Begged...

The fables of Ivan Krylov are rich fonts of Russian cultural wisdom and experience – reading and understanding them is vital to grasping the Russian worldview. This new edition of 62 of Krylov’s tales presents them side-by-side in English and Russian. The wonderfully lyrical translations by Lydia Razran Stone are accompanied by original, whimsical color illustrations by Katya Korobkina.

Moscow and Muscovites
November 26, 2013

Moscow and Muscovites

Vladimir Gilyarovsky's classic portrait of the Russian capital is one of Russians’ most beloved books. Yet it has never before been translated into English. Until now! It is a spectactular verbal pastiche: conversation, from gutter gibberish to the drawing room; oratory, from illiterates to aristocrats; prose, from boilerplate to Tolstoy; poetry, from earthy humor to Pushkin. 

Fearful Majesty
July 01, 2014

Fearful Majesty

This acclaimed biography of one of Russia’s most important and tyrannical rulers is not only a rich, readable biography, it is also surprisingly timely, revealing how many of the issues Russia faces today have their roots in Ivan’s reign.

Russian Rules
November 16, 2011

Russian Rules

From the shores of the White Sea to Moscow and the Northern Caucasus, Russian Rules is a high-speed thriller based on actual events, terrifying possibilities, and some really stupid decisions.

Jews in Service to the Tsar
October 09, 2011

Jews in Service to the Tsar

Benjamin Disraeli advised, “Read no history: nothing but biography, for that is life without theory.” With Jews in Service to the Tsar, Lev Berdnikov offers us 28 biographies spanning five centuries of Russian Jewish history, and each portrait opens a new window onto the history of Eastern Europe’s Jews, illuminating dark corners and challenging widely-held conceptions about the role of Jews in Russian history.

Bears in the Caviar
May 01, 2015

Bears in the Caviar

Bears in the Caviar is a hilarious and insightful memoir by a diplomat who was “present at the creation” of US-Soviet relations. Charles Thayer headed off to Russia in 1933, calculating that if he could just learn Russian and be on the spot when the US and USSR established relations, he could make himself indispensable and start a career in the foreign service. Remarkably, he pulled it of.

Stargorod: A Novel in Many Voices
May 01, 2013

Stargorod: A Novel in Many Voices

Stargorod is a mid-sized provincial city that exists only in Russian metaphorical space. It has its roots in Gogol, and Ilf and Petrov, and is a place far from Moscow, but close to Russian hearts. It is a place of mystery and normality, of provincial innocence and Black Earth wisdom. Strange, inexplicable things happen in Stargorod. So do good things. And bad things. A lot like life everywhere, one might say. Only with a heavy dose of vodka, longing and mystery.

Murder at the Dacha
July 01, 2013

Murder at the Dacha

Senior Lieutenant Pavel Matyushkin has a problem. Several, actually. Not the least of them is the fact that a powerful Soviet boss has been murdered, and Matyushkin's surly commander has given him an unreasonably short time frame to close the case.

Driving Down Russia's Spine
June 01, 2016

Driving Down Russia's Spine

The story of the epic Spine of Russia trip, intertwining fascinating subject profiles with digressions into historical and cultural themes relevant to understanding modern Russia. 

About Us

Russian Life is a publication of a 30-year-young, award-winning publishing house that creates a bimonthly magazine, books, maps, and other products for Russophiles the world over.

Latest Posts

Our Contacts

Russian Life
73 Main Street, Suite 402
Montpelier VT 05602

802-223-4955