September 20, 2023

Pilgrimage Under Shelling: "Shana Tova" From Uman


Pilgrimage Under Shelling: "Shana Tova" From Uman
Hassidic Jews celebrating Rosh Hashanah in Uman, Ukraine. Liz Cookman, Twitter.

At nightfall on September 15, families worldwide sweetened apples with honey to celebrate Rosh Hashanah, the Jewish New Year. Amid Russia's invasion of Ukraine, 35,000 Hassidic Jews pilgrimaged to Uman, Ukraine, to celebrate this holiday at Rabbi Nachman of Breslov's grave.

Every Rosh Hashanah since Rabbi Nachman died in 1810, male followers visit his grave in Uman to celebrate one of the most important holidays in Judaism. Even during the Soviet era, when overt displays of religion were forbidden, Hassidic Jews carried out the pilgrimage in secret, without public displays of prayer.

In 2022 and 2023, the Israeli and U.S. governments advised followers against traveling to Ukraine because of safety concerns, but packed buses still flocked to the city. Uman's street signs were changed from Ukrainian to Hebrew. Social media users posted videos of pilgrims dancing and singing in the city. Believers held a public prayer for Ukraine.

Ukrainian officials set up checkpoints across the city, and extra security measures were enhanced to protect the pilgrims. The Israeli police also participated in security efforts. Yet, according to The Times of Israel, in a meeting with Ukraine's rabbis, President Volodymyr Zelensky said: "I will try to take care of Israelis on their way to Uman. But if Israel were to send [the] Iron Dome, there would be a way to protect those Israelis." 

The festival did not come without inconveniences. One Israeli citizen was arrested after colliding with another car and killing a Ukrainian citizen. Four other Israelis were detained at a checkpoint for cannabis possession.

You Might Also Like

Notes at the Front

Notes at the Front

Musicians have not been spared from the criminalization of protest and expression. We also share Ilya Yashin's final words.
Leave or Die
  • August 15, 2023

Leave or Die

In which we visit a "typical" Siberian town and dig into the issues and people who live there.
To Stay and Survive
  • August 15, 2023

To Stay and Survive

A filmmaker Elizaveta spent months riding Russia’s rails and discussing the war with fellow travelers.
ROC: Pacifism is Heresy
  • June 15, 2023

ROC: Pacifism is Heresy

A Russian Orthodox priest called for peace. In response, the church said pacifism is "incompatible" with Orthodox teachings.
Russian Genealogy
  • June 01, 1997

Russian Genealogy

If you have family roots in Russia, you are in good company. Between 1820 and 1992, according to INS data, some 3,512,332 individuals immigrated to the United States from Russia, most of them around the turn of the century (2.5 mn between 1897 and WWI).
Like this post? Get a weekly email digest + member-only deals

Some of our Books

Davai! The Russians and Their Vodka
November 01, 2012

Davai! The Russians and Their Vodka

In this comprehensive, quixotic and addictive book, Edwin Trommelen explores all facets of the Russian obsession with vodka. Peering chiefly through the lenses of history and literature, Trommelen offers up an appropriately complex, rich and bittersweet portrait, based on great respect for Russian culture.

The Samovar Murders
November 01, 2019

The Samovar Murders

The murder of a poet is always more than a murder. When a famous writer is brutally stabbed on the campus of Moscow’s Lumumba University, the son of a recently deposed African president confesses, and the case assumes political implications that no one wants any part of.

How Russia Got That Way
September 20, 2025

How Russia Got That Way

A fast-paced crash course in Russian history, from Norsemen to Navalny, that explores the ways the Kremlin uses history to achieve its ends.

The Latchkey Murders
July 01, 2015

The Latchkey Murders

Senior Lieutenant Pavel Matyushkin is back on the case in this prequel to the popular mystery Murder at the Dacha, in which a serial killer is on the loose in Khrushchev’s Moscow...

Bears in the Caviar
May 01, 2015

Bears in the Caviar

Bears in the Caviar is a hilarious and insightful memoir by a diplomat who was “present at the creation” of US-Soviet relations. Charles Thayer headed off to Russia in 1933, calculating that if he could just learn Russian and be on the spot when the US and USSR established relations, he could make himself indispensable and start a career in the foreign service. Remarkably, he pulled it of.

Murder and the Muse
December 12, 2016

Murder and the Muse

KGB Chief Andropov has tapped Matyushkin to solve a brazen jewel heist from Picasso’s wife at the posh Metropole Hotel. But when the case bleeds over into murder, machinations, and international intrigue, not everyone is eager to see where the clues might lead.

Driving Down Russia's Spine
June 01, 2016

Driving Down Russia's Spine

The story of the epic Spine of Russia trip, intertwining fascinating subject profiles with digressions into historical and cultural themes relevant to understanding modern Russia. 

Life Stories
September 01, 2009

Life Stories

The Life Stories collection is a nice introduction to contemporary Russian fiction: many of the 19 authors featured here have won major Russian literary prizes and/or become bestsellers. These are life-affirming stories of love, family, hope, rebirth, mystery and imagination, masterfully translated by some of the best Russian-English translators working today. The selections reassert the power of Russian literature to affect readers of all cultures in profound and lasting ways. Best of all, 100% of the profits from the sale of this book are going to benefit Russian hospice—not-for-profit care for fellow human beings who are nearing the end of their own life stories.

About Us

Russian Life is a publication of a 30-year-young, award-winning publishing house that creates a bimonthly magazine, books, maps, and other products for Russophiles the world over.

Latest Posts

Our Contacts

Russian Life
73 Main Street, Suite 402
Montpelier VT 05602

802-223-4955