Apple Compote for the Soul

From the Soviet cookery bible, the Book of Tasty and Healthy Food, we know that “a product prepared by cooking purees from various types of apples with or without the addition of sugar is called povidlo.” You can see for yourself that this description is extremely similar to jam, with the only difference being that povidlo is made from crushed, and not whole, fruit.

During the Soviet years, jam was often called povidlo for ideological reasons. It is even rumored that one government member was given the personal mission of taking the foreign name “dzhem” off the menus of public catering enterprises, replacing it with the more neutral povidlo.

On the one hand, the Soviet leaders did povidlo a favor by making it famous. On the other, don’t be surprised if a Russian wrinkles up his nose on hearing the word “povidlo.” This simply means that he grew up on the “refined catering” of the socialist era. During that time, the expressions “pirozhki with povidlo” and “pirozhki with cat” meant about the same thing. It was something suspicious, a “test” for the stomach. For the meat and fruit fillings sold on the street and in cafeterias were not always of the best quality – to put it delicately.

But the povidlo sold in stores at that time did have one great thing going for it: it was cheap. And here’s why. Although the recipe for povidlo states that only large, ripe fruit should be used in its preparation, the Soviet conserves industry often operated under the principle of “don’t let a good thing go to waste,” allowing fallen or rotten fruit into the production process. Needless to say, the povidlo came out inexpensive, but frightening.

On the other hand, homemade povidlo made “from the soul” and observing all the culinary requirements is a whole different ballgame. It helps to sweeten those long winter evenings in the kitchen with cups of tea and to remind you of the warm days of August and September. Homemade povidlo  combines a golden color, a soft apple taste and the smell of Indian summer. In short, give it a try.

– Yelena Utenkova

Apple Povidlo

To make povidlo, use all the fall and winter varieties of apples.

1.  First of all, wash the apples well and remove their stems.

2.  Cut the washed apples into four parts and set in a pot filled with a small amount of water, then cook until they become soft (but not until they fall apart).

3.  Crush and sift the cooked apples so that the seeds, peel and other inedible parts remain in the sieve.

4.  Place the obtained puree into a heatproof dish – a small tub with a large area for evaporation works best. For every 1 kg (2.2 lbs) of puree, add 550-600 g (19.4-21.2 oz.) of sugar and cook over a strong flame, stirring constantly with a ladle. Continue cooking until the povidlo thickens.

5.  The povidlo is ready when the ladle leaves a furrow on the surface that doesn’t immediately disappear, or when it falls off the ladle in pieces, rather than in a liquid thread.