A holiday gift from Ukraine

A Holiday Gift From Ukraine

V

areniki (from the Russian verb, varit, “to boil”) came to Russia from Ukraine. Nikolai Gogol, also from Ukraine, is said to have mused that life without his beloved vareniki would be inconceivable. Many contemporary Russians (and Ukrainians) would surely agree. So it is not surprising that Russians have adopted vareniki (and Gogol, for that matter) as their own. As if to stake their claim, Russian cookbooks often offer a recipe for vareniki starorusskiye (Old Russian Vareniki). In fact, it is common in both Russian and Ukrainian cookbooks for dumpling directions to begin: “Make dough as for vareniki,” as if any self-respecting cook should know how to make a good vareniki dough without a recipe.

Vareniki are in many ways like pelmeni, which we presented in this column some time ago. Both the dough and the cooking procedure are similar. The most notable difference, however, is that pelmeni fillings are usually salty or spicy, whereas Russians associate vareniki with fruit or tvorog  (cottage cheese) fillings. Notably, however, Ukrainians call all dumplings varenyky, and those filled with cabbage and potato are a requisite part of their Christmas Eve feasts.

Quite apart from special feasts or even dinners, Russians also love to eat fruit-filled vareniki as part of a hearty breakfast that includes kefir, yogurt, or plain milk. You might want to try these dumplings as part of a Sunday brunch. 

With due respect to the historical roots of this meal, we sought out an authentic recipe from modern representatives of Kievan Rus’ in Moscow: namely, the Ukraine restaurant in Moscow’s towering riverfront hotel of the same name.

Vareniki with cherries

INGREDIENTS

3 cups flour

1⁄2 teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon sugar

1⁄4 cup water

1 jumbo egg, beaten 

3⁄4 cup whole milk (more, as needed)

Cherry Filling

2 lbs fresh sour cherries (see note)

1⁄4 cup sugar

First, make the filling. Wash and pit the cherries. Add the sugar and stir well. Let this mixture sit in a warm spot for several hours, stirring occasionally.

Next, make the dough. In a large bowl, place the flour, salt, and sugar. Mix the water with the beaten egg and stir into the flour. Beat in enough milk to make a soft dough. Turn out onto a floured board and knead until smooth. Place the dough in a greased bowl, turning to grease the top. Cover the bowl and let the dough sit in a warm place for 30-40 minutes. 

Strain the cherries, reserving the juice. Pour the juice into a small saucepan and set aside.

When the dough has risen, divide it into four pieces. Working with one piece at a time, roll the dough out on a floured board to about 1/8” thick. With a 4” biscuit cutter or glass, cut rounds from the dough. Place a spoonful (2-3 cherries) in the center of each round, then bring two sides of the dough together to form a half-moon. Seal the edges tightly. Repeat with the remaining dough.

Bring a large pot of water to a boil and drop the vareniki into the water in batches, making sure not to crowd them. Boil gently for 3 to 4 minutes, until they rise to the surface. Remove with a slotted spoon. Be careful not to overcook the vareniki or they will break apart.

Heat the reserved cherry juice to serve with the vareniki. (If you would like more syrup, dilute the cherry juice with water, then thicken it with a little cornstarch that has been mixed with water. Add more sugar to taste.)

Serve the vareniki with the cherry syrup and sour cream. 

Makes 80-100 vareniki.

Note: If fresh cherries are not available, substitute a 2-pound jar of Morello cherries packed in water. Drain well and proceed as directed above. Or use 2 pounds of canned sweet cherries in syrup. Reserve the syrup to serve with the dumplings. Do not add more sugar if the cherries are already sweet. Strawberries, raspberries, black currants, or blackberries may also be substituted for the cherries.

Recipe courtesy Ukraine restaurant.