Dessert a la Tartar

D

on’t be fooled by the oriental name of this Russian dessert: Kaymak s vaflyami (kaymak with wafers). It is in fact an ancient Russian recipe, with just a trace of Tartar. The Mongols (whom Russians call Tartars) had plenty of time — three centuries — to influence Russia. This dish is but one example.

Kaymak simply means “caramelized cream.” This ancient Russian dessert was very popular with the “creme dela créme” of Russian high society in the 18th century. Perhaps this was because the dish is so rich in créme (cream).  

Most likely it is simply because this dish is a perfect way to end a heavy meal of borshch or sterlet. Something to pacify your stomach, as it were.

No one has described this elegant, tasty dessert better than Gavriil Romanovich Derzhavin, Catherine the Great’s court poet.  In his poem, Invitation to Dinner, he wrote:

òÂÍÒÌËÌÒ͇ ÒÚÂÎfl‰¸ ÁÓÎÓÚ‡fl,

ä‡ÈÏ‡Í Ë ·Ó˘ Û  ÒÚÓflÚ

Ç Í‡ÙË̇ı ‚Ë̇, ÔÛ̯, ·ÎËÒÚ‡fl

íÓ Î¸‰ÓÏ, ÚÓ ËÒÍ‡ÏË Ï‡ÌflÚ 

Golden Sheksna River sterlet,*

Kaymak, and borshch already await,

Wines and punch sparkle in decanters,

Beckoning with ice and sparks…

*A river in the Vologda region

Kaymak with Wafers

ä‡ÈÏ‡Í Ò ‚‡ÙÎflÏË

Ingredients

3 cups heavy cream 

2/3 cup granulated sugar 

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

1 tablespoon lemon juice

1/2 cup heavy cream, whipped

1 cup dried apricots, minced

Vanilla wafers

In a heavy saucepan, mix the 3 cups cream with the sugar and vanilla. Bring the mixture to a boil and cook until the liquid is reduced by half.  Strain the mixture into a bowl and immediately place the bowl over ice.  Gradually add the lemon juice, stirring constantly.

Leave the mixture to cool to room temperature. It is now called kaymak. Fold in the whipped cream. The texture should be like thick cream.

To assemble the dessert, place a layer of vanilla wafers on a serving plate.  Top them with half of the minced dried apricots, then half of the kaymak.  Repeat with the remaining ingredients, smoothing the top and sides.  Place the dessert in the refrigerator and chill for several hours.

Shortly before serving, remove the dessert from the refrigerator and allow to stand at room temperature for 15-20 minutes.

Serves 4. (Recipe courtesy Moscow’s Red Square restaurant.)