In History's Wake

Russian civilization began and grew from the great river basins of the Dnieper, Volga, Dvina and Bug. These were major North-South trading routes “from the Varangians to the Greeks,” responsible for the rise of Kievan Rus and the Novgorod state.

The subsequent rise of Moscow is similarly attributable to waterways. Russia’s capital is situated near the headwaters of four important rivers: the Dnieper, Volga, Oka and Don.

For centuries, traders and travelers have used these waterways to navigate across Russia. So it should not be surprising that travel by river remains one of the best ways to see Russia.

Add to this the obvious advantages of cruises as a means of travel: you only have to unpack once (your hotel travels with you); there is plenty of on-board entertainment and food; there is a healthy emphasis on travel outside the capitals; you can spend the time in between destinations dozing pleasantly on a sun-warmed deck. In short, a great way to immerse yourself in another culture and hobnob with it’s representatives.

Today’s Russian river cruises combine the exotic nature of travel along Russia’s ancient waterways with Western-style amenities (luxurious towels, hot showers, Western-made toilet paper, etc.) and lighter, American-style food. As such, they are a perfect option for almost every tourist.

Of course, as with every travel option, there are potential negatives. For one, when you travel on a cruise, the nature of the vehicle demands a large travel group. Which means you will be sharing your view of Russia with anywhere from 100-300 people. Being on the river can also make contact with home a bit more difficult than if you were traveling just in the Russian capitals. Finally, river travel exposes you more to the elements (mainly sun, waves and mosquitoes) than does city travel.

The latter problems can usually be stemmed by laying in a good stock of bug repellent, sun block and anti-sea sickness pills. And, as with travel to many places in the world, drinking water from the tap on board ship is usually not advisable.

Before registering for a cruise, some practical questions to ask include: what sort of entertainment and activites are offered? What type of people do the company’s cruises typically attract: students, pensioners, couples? Will you fit in among them? What stops will be made along the way? How much time will be allotted for each stop (one brochure we reviewed allowed only 3 hours in a Golden Ring city)? Can you be guaranteed a cabin with a large outside window? Do cabins have individual climate controls (don’t expect air conditioning)? Do cabins have their own bathrooms and showers? Hot water? If you have special dietary or other needs, can they be provided for? What is not included in the package tour price?

What is on offer?

There is now an amazing range of cruise options on offer to Russia. From Northern to Eastern Russia, whether it is sun or ice you want, education or entertainment, there is a cruise to suit you and your tastes. What is more, many of the longer-running cruises have a wide range of on-board activities: guest lectures, films, language classes, dances, local entertainers and guided shore excursions.

The most traveled route is between Moscow and St. Petersburg. Most all cruise agencies surveyed offered this program (see listing). Criticized by some as offering a “sanitized view” of Russia (this was the main route on offer in the Soviet days), it now usually includes a sidetrip to the picturesque island of Kizhi, to view the amazing wooden architecture there, plus stops in many Golden Ring cities.

Next most popular, and preferable for showing less-known locations, are Volga and Dnieper cruises. Again, most all agencies listed can offer these tours, varying from one-week excursions to 23-day trips from Moscow to the Caspian Sea.

More unusual tours are also available. EuroCruises offers a 3-day visa-free tour of St. Petersburg, perfect for viewing a Hermitage exhibit. Pallada offers Golden Ring cruises. OdessAmerica can take you through the Arctic Northeast Passage. Uniworld and Eurocruises offer trips up the Yenisei river in Siberia, and Uniworld offers an Amur river trip that also includes some time on the Trans-Siberian railway. Mir Corporation is offering, together with the Russian National Orchestra, a Russian Literary and Musical Greats tour down the Volga. FinnWay and Eurocruises have Baltic region cruises.

Trips range greatly in length and price, though most tours are 10-14 days, and only the more specialized tours will cost over $3000. Prices can be quite competitive for the main routes, with prices rising and falling with the mercury levels during July and August. So shop around and be sure you get everything you are looking for. Then get ready to sit back and watch Russia float by.