Midwinter Fish Fest

C

ome winter, Russia’s rivers and lakes freeze over with a thick layer of ice. This is the moment thousands of Russians have waited for, when they can head out onto the ice for a favorite winter sport—ice fishing (see page 26). Bundled in padded jackets and fur caps, they sit for hours, hunched over holes that they’ve chiseled or bored into the ice. For most of the fishermen (and most are, in fact, men), equipment is rudimentary, only a twig with some minnows or mosquito larvae for bait. Lately a few Mercedes have been sighted on the ice, with their owners dressed in the latest bright microfibers, but they seem out of place. Russian ice fishermen are generally a tough breed, sitting patiently on their metal boxes as they wait for a bite.

And wait they must. Fish are notoriously sluggish in the cold winter waters, so they don’t bite as aggressively as they do in the summer. Sometimes a dozen or more holes must be cut before one is found where the fish are biting. Because the fish don’t tug at the line, real Russian fishermen don’t wear gloves, so that their hands will be sensitive to the slightest nibble. The nature of this sport fits perfectly with two poles of the Russian character. It provides an opportunity for wonderful camaraderie, especially when there’s a bottle or two of vodka to share for warmth. Conversely, it can offer a special kind of solitude, a moment for reflection and meditation on the beauty of the Russian winter landscape. 

Ice fishermen in the West often build temporary huts out on the ice to escape into for shelter, but the Russians pride themselves on their hardiness. Some-times they’ll build a fire on shore to warm themselves up, but more often they just bring thermoses of hot tea or bottles of vodka to drink. Yet they must take care not to over-imbibe, as ice fishing carries plenty of risks. Sometimes sheets of ice break off, especially when it’s windy. This happens fairly frequently on the ice shelf that forms in the Gulf of Finland, a favorite ice-fishing spot for St. Petersburg residents. Early in the winter of 2002 the ice shelf broke off, stranding 200 terrified fishermen. Luckily, they were rescued by helicopter, but every year some sixty ice fishermen are lost at sea. 

Apart from the excitement and pleasure of the sport, there’s another excellent reason to fish in winter, and it’s the one that concerns us most here. Fish caught from frigid waters have the best flavor of all. The warm waters of summer can sometimes make fish taste muddy, and their flesh is often flaccid. By contrast, winter-caught fish always cooks up firm and flaky, with a pristine flavor. Near St. Petersburg, the most prized fishing spots are in the Gulf of Finland and in Lake Ladoga, where the best catches include pike, bream, ruff, perch, and roach. These are all European fish, but here in the States we have excellent ice-caught fish, too. Try the recipe below with some northern pike or jumbo perch, or some walleye or crappie or trout. It’s a simple preparation that lets the flavor of the freshly caught fish shine through–nothing fancy, just Russian homestyle cooking at its best.

– Darra Goldstein

Russian Fish Bake

11⁄2 pounds fish, cut into 2-inch cubes

Salt, freshly ground black pepper to taste

11⁄2 pounds potatoes, peeled and cut into 2-inch cubes

8 tablespoons butter

6 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice

2 hard-boiled eggs, coarsely chopped

1⁄4 cup minced fresh parsley

1⁄4 teaspoon salt, or to taste

Bring a medium pot of salted water to a boil. Add the potatoes and cook until just tender. Drain and keep warm.

While the potatoes are boiling, preheat the oven to 400o F. Place the fish in an ovenproof dish and season with salt and pepper. Bake for 10 minutes, until the fish is flaky but still holds its shape.

While the fish is baking, melt the butter with the lemon juice over low heat. Stir in the eggs, parsley, and salt.

Remove the fish from the oven. Add the potatoes to the dish, then pour the sauce over all. Serve immediately.

Serves 4.