Vodka in the Berkshires

In the graceful Berkshire hills just east of Lenox, Massachusetts, several dozen Russophiles gathered at Eastover Resort on December 8 to take part in the 4th Annual Russian Life International Vodka Taste-Off and Taste of Russia Dinner. Supping on homemade Russian brown bread, authentic zakuski, Chicken Kiev, and Charlottes Malakoff, the attendees tasted from among 16 ultra-premium vodkas, to decide which vodka would bring home this year’s top prize.

At the end of the night, Russian Life Publisher Paul Richardson announced the results of the blind tasting. Counting up from the 16th-ranked vodka (Mezzaluna, from Italy—“this shows why Russians are not famous for pizza”) and past several heavily marketed brands (Absolut came in 15th place, Stolichnaya 13th), the list was finally whittled down to the top three: Krolewska, a little-known Polish brand packaged in a tall, thin bottle, attractively adorned with stained-glass windows, Russia’s Cristall, and France’s Grey Goose.

In the end, the gold medal for 2001 fell beyond the reach of both of the disputed birthplaces of vodka and was awarded to Grey Goose, by a very strong margin. Cristall took the silver medal for the third year running, and Krolewska placed third.

Grey Goose has received top tasting honors around the globe, and in fact did quite well in the 1st and 2nd Russian Life Taste-Offs (see chart, page 54). But it came in a surprising last place in the 3rd Taste-Off, making this year’s victory all the more sweet. The French vodka is made from water from the Gente Springs and grain from the breadbasket region of France. It is imported into the US by Sidney Frank Importers.

The rural setting for the 4th annual Taste of Russia event took on a Doctor Zhivago-esque feel when, as the dinner was coming to an end, a light snow began to fall outside the tall windows of the dining room. In the background, a talented local band serenaded the sated diners with Russian folk favorites.

After dinner, the party shifted to Eastover’s fireplace-warmed library, where guests sampled several fine flavored vodkas, including Bak’s Zubrovka (Bison Grass), from Poland; four Russian vodkas: Cristall Lemon, Jewel of Russia Wild Bilberry Infusion, Jewel of Russia Berry Infusion, Stolichnaya Vanil; and a Karkade-flavored vodka produced by Vermont Spirits. “I normally don’t drink,” announced one middle-aged Russophile, “but this, it is my jewel,” she said, referring to the warm-red Jewel of Russia berry vodka.

The Taste of Russia event was an all-inclusive weekend for attendees. So, after sampling many fine ultra-premium vodkas, the Russophiles drifted off to their rooms with nary a care, gathering again in the morning for an informal repast of Russian bliny. And of course plenty of warm coffee.  RL