April 01, 1998

The Perfect Vodka Appetizer


As this issue is dedicated to vodka, we decided to provide you with a comprehensive list of meals that go well with this drink – both hot meals and appetizers. As William Pokhlyobkin, Russia’s renowned expert on food history noted: “attempts to mix vodka with improper dishes are dangerous, as these attempts may ensue in vodka being discredited as a gastronomically essential table drink ...”

Ideally, vodka consumption should be accompanied  by traditional Russian meals. For it is difficult to fully appreciate some of these meals without vodka. First of all, vodka goes well with fatty meat or salty fish. It also goes extremely well with pork {RL, December 1996}, bliny {RL, March 1996} or pelmeni {RL, February 1996} and solyanka {RL, November 1996}. The vodka complements these meals, contributing to good digestion, washing out the fat (and the fat, in turn, helps you to stay relatively sober). Traditional Russian meals are made to remedy the negative impact of vodka on one’s head, provided the vodka is consumed in moderation, of course. Oh, and don’t use fatty lamb or mutton, which call for heavy, dry red wine rather than vodka.

Even though hot meals can go great with vodka, this drink is mostly consumed with appetizers. The assortment of appetizers in Russian cuisine was mainly developed in the 18th century – the same time that the art of home-made winemaking with its rich vodka assortment began to blossom. So vodka’s organoleptic properties, its aroma and its purification process were adjusted to complement Russian appetizers.

Needless to say, such a classic vodka appetizer  as caviar – both red and black – is well-known in the West. Pickles {RL, January 1997}, sour cabbage {RL, February 1998} and vinegret {RL, January 1988} should also be a part of your vodka menu. On the other hand, it would be a great mistake to serve vodka with certain marinated foods. Salted pickles or salted mushrooms are perfect with vodka, but marinated  pickles or marinated  mushrooms will make your stomach do somersaults.

Probably your best bet is the traditional selyodka – herring. First, it can be served both marinated or lightly salted (malosolny). Second, anyone can afford selyodka. Just go to your nearest grocery store. Mind you, a whole fish is preferable (see photo) – it is more Russian-style. And if you want it salted according to traditional recipes, buy at a Russian speciality store. Salting raw selyodka on your own is a tall order.

 

Ingredients

1 medium-sized herring

2 tbsp vegetable oil

2 boiled potatoes

1 boiled carrot

1 boiled beet

1 fresh cucumber

1 tomato

1 onion

1 spring onion

2 hard-boiled eggs

 

Soak the herring in water or milk, debone and cut into thin slices. To make the garnish, cut the potatoes, beet and carrot into small cubes, slice the cucumber, cut the onion into rings, dice the spring onion and cut the eggs into four sections.

Place some of the vegetables on a serving dish, and lay the sliced herring on top. Around the herring, arrange the remaining vegetables and drizzle vegetable oil over the top.

Take your vodka from the freezer (make sure it is chilled to at least 40o F, preferably 32o). Using a fork, spear a piece of herring with one hand, while holding a shot-glass full of cold vodka in the other. Drink (bottoms up, please!). Then send the herring into your mouth as a chaser. Nothing beats the feeling.

– Dmitry Karbyshev

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