Russian Spas

Author: Maria Kolesnikova
Website: RL Online
Department:
Page: 0   ( 0) pages

Summary: Russia's history of taking to the spas, in the shadow of military conflict.

Mineral Springs of South Russia (Part 1)

The mineral springs of Stavropolsky krai, known as the Russian Baden-Baden, have opened their 2006 season. Four major resorts there - Kislovodsk, Pyatigorsk, Essentuki and Zheleznovodsk - are filling up fast, despite their proximity to Chechnya and the other less-troubled, but still somewhat "rugged" republics in Russia's Caucasus region. Holiday-travelers come here for three weeks of bliss in 1980s-era resort centers, to repair their health with mineral baths and drinks, and to stroll around the four cities' magnificent parks.

It's hard to scare Russians away, when they set their minds on taking a holiday. Package tours to Egypt kept selling well even after the July 23, 2005 explosions in Sharm el-Sheikh (and there was not even a slight price decrease). Even the December 26, 2004 tsunami that devastated Indonesia, Thailand and other countries in Southeast Asia only slightly shrank the number of Russians traveling to the region for a beach vacation. Here, at the Caucasus' back door, Russians have a long history of vacationing next to war.

From the 16th to 19th centuries, three powers - Turkey, Persia and Russia - sought control over Central Asia in what was referred to as "The Great Game." Russia finally took over in the course of Caucasus war (1817-1864). During this time, the area was populated by a mix of local peoples, Cossacks, Russian frontier warriors, and regular Russian army. Military garrisons of Russian fortresses discovered the first mineral springs, which later gained wide medical use.

Areas around Pyatigorsk became known for their springs earlier, in the 1780s. The first holiday-makers lived in Konstantinovskaya Fortress. In 1813-1814, Russians founded a settlement at Goryachvodsk ("city of hot waters"), which was later renamed Pyatigorsk - the city of five mountains - after the five-peaked mount Beshtau, which is nearby. On the site of today's Kislovodsk, the first thousand ailing patients arrived for treatment in 1798, led by General-Lieutenant I. Markov. Fortifications were build several years later.

In 1803, Emperor Alexander I officially endorsed the resorts around mineral springs of the Caucasus, boosting both local construction and visitation by members of high society. The original tent villages - protected from enemy raids by military patrols - were replaced by nicely planned streets surrounded by well-kept parks. Permanent buildings were built to cover the springs, instead of simple tents. Of course, the price per bath jumped: to four rubles. This was an enormous amount at the time (a cow cost three rubles). Nonetheless, virtually every prominent 19th century Russian visited the area, including Alexander Pushkin, Mikhail Lermontov, Leo Tolstoy and Anton Chekhov. Dachas of the rich sprouted around the hills, as the area was gradually becoming safer (i.e. "subjugated to Imperial control").

Today, these resorts are on the Russian frontier once again. Despite memories of several explosions in Pyatigorsk, or on the train in Essentuki in late 2003, Russians brave the risks. They must have their mineral baths.

But it is not as if the threat of disorder looms large over these places. Walking around the four cities today, one does occassionally catch a glimpse of grey police uniforms - there are multiple patrols of central areas and parks. But there seems to be an attempt to keep the police presence noticeable but discrete. Tourism, after all, is the main source of income here. It is important that visitors feel safe but not under seige. Surely street vendors offering knitted goods or local souvenirs are much more ubiquitous, as are as travel agents offering excursions.

Part 2: The modern complexion of Russian spas...